Of course Christophe Claret being himself, he sought out to take this traditional technology and make it work for a wrist watch. Thus, in the Maestoso you'll find a new type of detent escapement designed to be abused a bit. Because most detent escapements are sensitive to any shock, the issue was ensuring that the Maestoso's escapement could withstand normal wrist watch wear. According to Christophe Claret this required three new patented inventions as well as some clever engineering to get right in the new watch.
It is true, Urwerk has some very cool watches and are among the few sci-fi watches that I would actually say look futuristic in a way that doesn't scream "science fiction nerd." There is a masculine darkness to their designs that feels more automotive and military-inspired than spaceship and lightsaber. A prime directive at the brand is that their watches must be different, and to that end they have dutifully succeeded. Another interesting goal of theirs over the last few years has been to make their timepieces more interactive.
The benefits of the Version 3 engine are impressive. The compass features a continuous reading for 60 seconds (versus 20 seconds for prior versions) as well as consuming 90% less energy and having a 95% smaller direction sensor! The result is a faster and more accurate wrist tool.
To combat metal-on-metal wear watchmakers needed to find a substance that was harder than metal and so began the use of jewels within watches. The jewels that are hard enough are diamonds, sapphires and rubies. The latter two were cheaper than diamonds and could be synthetically created, Rubies are used because they have a hardness on the mohs scale similar to diamonds. These days these are synthetic rubies created for the express purpose of use in watches. As it was initially quite difficult to create and set these jewels, the amount of jewels in a movement was an indicator of it’s quality.
When Eterna was sold to the Chinese it also lost Patrick Kury, who was running the show. He was certainly more about interesting timepiece technology than sales, but his mission was sound. The new Eterna CEO is Bruno Jufer. Without the Porsche Design connection, Eterna will have to focus on its own timepieces and production of movements. Under Kury their forte was really the in-house movements, so I hope that will continue into the future. Perhaps they will even sell movements to outside companies.
Lynn-Marie Cerce (LMC): Since 1904, iconic American brand Speidel has been renowned for innovative designs, operational excellence, and passion for customer service. We are the number one recognized brand in the world for watchbands and identification bracelets, and offer a wide variety of products including our signature “Twist-O-Flex®” watchband, Speidel Identification Bracelets (Speidel ID’s®, My First ID®) and Medical Alert bracelets (Medilog®), as well as beautifully crafted traditional and contemporary timepieces.
Collectors also know that they buy watches for emotional purposes. Watches are a hobby and a source of enjoyment. If you are the type of person who is interested in owning watches that you can later sell for a profit then in most instances you have to initially invest a huge amount of money in the first place. This is really important to express because in the commercial universe most things aren't going to increase in value after you purchase them, and the same applies to most timepieces.
4. 2014 Tudor Heritage Black Bay “Blue” 79220B Watch Hands-On
The movement of course is an automatic and operates at a high frequency of 36,000 bph. In addition to the annual calendar there is a 60 minute chronograph - which is nice. Oh, and note that I think the markings are wrong on the pre-production titanium and gold version of the Pilot Annual Calendar seen in this article. It has some strange text in the lower sub dial such as "split" that doesn't seem to make sense. You get cool stuff like that when dealing with prototypes. The dials are further wonderfully proportioned. We've taken the opportunity on almost every occasion we've discussed Zenith to applaud their use of properly-sized hands on otherwise already legible dials. I think one of the main reasons that so many people are drawn to this retro-inspired Pilot collection is because the hands and numerals offer such a high level of readability.
Speaking of which, let's cut to the point that makes this year's V4 a true novelty, and also a more important advancement over any of its predecessors: it's single-axis, one minute tourbillon. I will admit that the trend of putting a tourbillon on just about anything that is considered capable of fetching six-figure prices is something I feel I need some strong medication for... and yet, I really enjoy the technological and temporal contrast this creates in the V4. On one hand there is the tourbillon, this two-centuries old–and by now bafflingly ubiquitous–invention, which Breguet designed to be so amazing and so arresting that it just fails to lose its power to impress no matter what. On the other hand, however, there is this very impressive sci-fi inspired movement (which Tag Heuer partially redesigned for the V4T) with its matte black belts stretching between comparably monumental gears and skeletonized bridges, all done in blacked-out metal...
Earlier this year, we brought you word of a new model from Linde Werdelin, the Oktopus II Moon. Today, we've got word of a new version of that rather interesting watch, and it's quite a fun twist, one that I'm partial to and that being engraving. Don't get me wrong - the luminous, hand-drawn moon phases are a very fun addition. But, when I see artistic engraving taking place on a watch case however, that's what I'm drawn to, given its relative rarity.
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Considered as one of the top watchmakers of this generation, François-Paul Journe celebrated the 10th anniversary of opening his first boutique in 2003 in Tokyo, Japan by releasing the 10 Year Anniversary Tourbillon, which is actually a reworked version of last year’s Anniversary Tourbillon. Though the watch is simply designed, it is, as is the case with watches from Monsieur Journe, also fantastically exquisite and well worth a closer look.