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"Fukang Watch!" This Chinese watch maker contacted me recently to tell me about their company and status as OEM and promotional watch makers. I have a feeling they do most of their business in China. You have here a watch company that is no where near being ready to enter the Western market. While their intentions are good, my reaction to their website and marketing is nothing short of hilarity. Starting with the name, we can tell that although their website ( has an English section, no one who actually speaks English spent any time on it. Again... "Fukang" Watch. Mother "Fukang" Watch. Sad and hilarious, but true. So our Fukang friends do everything from blatant design copies, to hideous Chinese military inspired watch creations, to stuff that isn't all that offensive on the eyes actually. Explore their site a bit and you can find a lot of stuff. If you wanted to order anything, you'll need to contact them for a quote. They prefer wholesale. I recommend getting 50 or so of the "military" watches so that you can hand them out as a novelty/gag gift to your friends. A nice touch is the Breitling inspired compass on the bracelet, in Chinese. Urban camouflage on the face of a watch not only hides your timepiece in the concrete jungle, but also hinders your ability to find out what time it is!

Remember the World Time watch I discussed above? This is one of the World Time Sport models in TX's 550 Series of watches. This watch is model number T3C414. The watch shares the same functions as the World Time watch, but also has a rotating diver style bezel - here in a rose gold tone. The case is steel and also 45mm wide. I like the texturing on the dial and the applied pieces that really give it a nice complex look. This is worlds above a simple "painted dial." I rarely like dials that have no depth to them. The watch is very sporty and fun to look at and wear. The build quality is good too, which is something I can say across the board for all TX watches. They did a good job on the quality side. The strap is leather and nicely fitted to the case. Price for this watch is 5.

The watch does something interesting that you won't easily be able to decipher just from looking at it. See how the dial has 24 hours and not 12? Well the watch goes slower that your normal watch. Actually half as fast only. The hour hand makes its way once around the dial each 24 hours. Why? Cause this is Breitling's way of having a day/night watch. Making it possible to know if it is day or night, especially important in space where it is hard to know whether it is day or night. I like that instead of just redressing another watch, Breitling actually did something different with the Cosmonaute Automatic Chronograph watch.

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While most of the commenting readers on are watch enthusiasts, I learned that I am well-read and regarded by the watch industry itself. I am proud to have a close relationship with many of the top brands, as well as the legions of independent brands that are keeping the watch industry fresh and interesting. Given the attention the watch industry has on me, and the loyal following of many watch fans, I feel proud to be a integral part of watch news and more importantly analytical and in-depth opinion. Unlike many of the watch sites out there, I've always wanted to give you an educated perspective and discussion on what I cover. This means a hands-on experience with watches, or at the very least a dissection of a press release to tell you what you need to know, and what is mere hyperbole.

As luxury is redefined, such pieces of true artwork - true couture - kinda horlogerie - will be the future - instead of purely ornamental watches.

'Ode to be different.' Isn't that the message most items of independent ilk wish to aspire to? To be different yet plausible is one of the key elements of creative functionality. It is easy to be creative when you simply make something "new" by adding a previously unused color. It is more difficult to be creative to the extent that you offer something instantly familiar but "different." For me, that is part of what the Linde Werdelin SpidoLite watch is all about. Offering the functionality you expect, with something unique you can't get somewhere else.

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The dial on the BR-03 92 Phantom is surprisingly easy to read. The painted hour markers are thick and wide, therefore raised over the dial. They consist of a healthy dose of black photo-luminescent paint, which makes the watch even easier to read when the lights are turned off. I have found in similar watches from other companies that the black markers take longer to "charge" then light colored ones. This means that if you do not hold the watch directly under a light source for five minutes it does not glow in the dark very well. The BR Phantom dials, on the other hand, have a strong, green glow even after regular wear during the day.

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Attention to detail all over the watch is fantastic. The hour markers around the dial are jewels that match the color theme of the watch. Here they are sapphires. The movement decoration, finishing and detail of the case, everything is amazing. Another example is that the strap ends where the butterfly deployment attached has a spring mechanism that gives about 1-2mm of pull. Why? Just to make sure the watch strap stays comfy if your wrist expands when you clench your first. Just like stretchy pants.

The collection is currently divided up into the LZ1, LZ2, and LZ3 watches. My first LUM-TEC watch was the M3 (which I reviewed here). The timepiece struck me as amazingly wearable, readable, and satisfying to look at (as well as affordable). It has such a comfortable mix of features and a look that was always welcome on my wrist. Now, just a couple of generations of watches later, LUM-TEC proves it is improving things with each new timepiece. Basically that means higher quality everything across the board, plus a mechanical instead of quartz movement. The price is up a bit of course, but the real deal is in pre-ordering the timepieces before they are released.

While there have been a few new releases from Eterna this year, the company has been relatively quiet. I did happen to notice this fine new release based on their re-issue of the classic KonTiki model. There have actually been a great deal of KonTiki watches over the years, but the versions with the four triangles are the purest in form. The recently re-released the KonTiki had a centralized date dial with an indicator hand, this new model has an internal date disc with a covertly placed date window between 4 and 5 o’clock. I must admit that it does improve the look of the watch — as the date window is functional, but not obtrusive. It further allows for greater appreciation of the dial and basic theme of the watch. The watch was designed as a sport watch back in the 1950s (I believe). Funny how what was informal then, almost looks formal now. Though the black and orange faced version is still quite sporty looking and certainly has the best personality of the two in my opinion. Really spectacular.

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I think the look of the movement layout has been well integrated into this watch. One of the cooler things that you can do with a Swiss quartz movement that would be impossible or impractical with a mechanical movement. Everything about the new Tag Heuer Formula 1 watches has been upgraded from the previous models. Size is up to 44mm wide, there is no plastic on the case anymore (the bezel is new metal in black), and it just feels better in your hands. The case is about 11mm thick and water resistant to 200 meters. Crystal is sapphire. On the side of the watch there is a cool looking "Tag Heuer" label. The watch comes with a rubber or metal bracelet. Ive always been quite fond of this style bracelet. The dial of the watch is ludicrously clear and easy to read. The Chronograph version isn't as easy to read given the addition of the retrograde dials at the bottom, but the hour markers are still there. The bold looks are actually refreshingly simple, which is a nice change of face from all the "busy" watches out there.

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Catering to fashionistas with different fashion senses, Gucci has designed the Marina Chain Collection in Sold Yellow Gold - Stainless Steel- and a combination of the two. On top of the metal options, diamonds are, of course, another option to customize your watch. I usually don't like Stainless Steel/Yellow Gold combos - kinda reminds me of the 80s - but in this case, it seems to be the best option. This way, you can see the Marina Chain links, which are the most interesting part of this watch.

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The dial on the T3C301 is pretty nicely done - not much else out there at this price range like it. Lots of texturing and layers, while the lume covered hour markers are applied. The hands are well done, but I would have liked for them to contrast a bit more with the dial. This is of course not an issue with the black faced version of this watch. I also like the angled chapter ring which helps add depth and complexity to the dial. The luminant works, but is a bit thinly applied, so expect the best results after the watch has been out in the sun a bit for darkness viewing. For a watch at this price level, I am really impressed by the build quality. It feels solid and well put together - with a good looking polish.

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Milus Herios & Tirion TriRetrograde Watches Hands-On

Milus Herios & Tirion TriRetrograde Watches Hands-On

One place that you don’t want to skimp on is your desk chair, especially when your job requires lots of sitting. One such job is watch maker. Many watch makers sit of uncomfortable benches. Why? Well, because they don’t think too much about it. For generations watch maker desks have more or less stayed the same, but the advent of the ergonomic desk chair is relatively new in comparison. So you have a degree of “that is how it is done” mentality. It doesn’t need to be that way, and it is not always that way. At Seiko’s high end watch movement manufacture location in Japan, the watch makers are blessed with comfortable Herman Miller ergonomic chairs. This was a deliberate decision at the company, because it was clear that workers need to be happy and healthy. Seiko admitted that while outfitting the work benches with the chairs was more expensive, it proved to be worth it. I didn’t see anyone complain. Plus, with watch makers needing not only to sit for long hours, but to be still when they are, the best chairs are almost a necessity.


The bezel is easily one of the best styled parts of the watch, certainly good looking. Twisting it is a bit hard, and the action could be a tad bit smoother, but it does not have any "give" and will not rattle around like cheap bezels will. The numbers and markers are actually engraved into the bezel, and the finish on the top of the bezel is an awesome almost gunmetal dark gray. The crystal is virtually flush with the case and the anti-reflective coating makes it really easy to read at angles.

We talk about pick-up artists and how watches are used in that artistry. A Franck Muller .7 million watch, currently the world's most complicated watch. We talk about a minimalist chronograph and Tokyo Flash. Ariel likes a new Jean-Baptiste Viot and we discuss, along with Thomas Prescher's new Tempusvivendi Qatar Watch.

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